A few days earlier, Maria Grazia Chiuri had sat down with Mexican fashion curator Circe Henestrosa to discuss Dior’s Cruise 2024 collection. The place chosen, which would later be the scene of the parade, was the Colegio San Ildefonso in the heart of Mexico City. The choice, of course, was not random. It was in this room where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera met in the twenties. Chiuri landed in the Mexican capital after her last autumn presentation in Mumbai. ‘A constellation of places that arouse emotions: that is Mexico for Maria Grazia Chiuri,’ said the French in a official statement.
And it is that if we could expect something from the creative director of Dior it was a collection full of feminist symbolism. On this occasion, the designer was clear: we would see something different from her Cruise 2019 collection, inspired by Mexican skirmishes. Female characters like Frida Kahlo, Leonora Carrington, Graciela Iturbide and more navigated the designer’s creative universe for this collection. These are the present symbolisms.
The butterfly as an icon of transformation
Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by what the butterfly represents through different cultures, metamorphosis and its evolutionary meaning. In Mexico, the monarch butterfly has been a powerful symbol thanks to the migratory journey it makes every year. Throughout the collection, the butterfly was present in embroidery, necklaces, corsets, prints and more; was the common thread of the garments.
Feminism at Dior
Under the direction of the designer, the French fashion label has made a feminist stance evident. A variety of details; From winks to characters like Frida Kahlo and Leonora Carrington and to a strong message that makes visible the problem that Mexico and Latin America faces regarding gender violence, the designer presented a set of white dresses with feminist messages, some of them even messages of activists to combat femicides in Mexico. The final presentation was made in collaboration with the feminist artist and activist, Elina Chauvet. Song Without Fear, by Vivir Quintana closed the parade in the heart of the venue.
The emblematic figure of Frida Kahlo
Without hesitation, the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo would also be a source of inspiration for Chiuri. Her vision of pain and resilient spirit guided the entire collection. “I loved having the opportunity to reinterpret the spirit and costume of Frida Kahlo with a contemporary perspective,” she said. In this way, butterflies, flora and fauna such as parrots, monkeys and birds of paradise – seen in Frida’s art, such as her famous Self-portrait with a necklace of thorns and hummingbird -, and the still life that she painted so much where she narrated her pain , are seen in prints across the collection in a variety of textile techniques that celebrate the blending of cultures. Even a pink dress is inspired by one of the painter’s self-portraits.
May the Mexican music resound
In addition to Song Without Fear, the parade was immersed in Mexican music. Melodies like You deserve a love by Vivir Quintana and Sabor a mí by Mina were some of the pieces included in the musical set. In addition, a female group of mariachis enlivened the night.
Tribute to textile wealth
In collaboration with master craftsmen and masters, the designer worked on garments that pay homage to Mexico’s textile wealth: long skirts contrast with tunics and counterweight garments, cotton, hemp and silk lace are present as a symbol of fragility and the The technical nature of the textile tradition is reflected in the embroideries created for this collection in collaboration with artisans in their workshops.
The Latin models who paraded
A celebration of Mexican culture was also seen through the casting of Latin American models such as Krini Hernández, Liz De Aza, Marsella Rea, Licett Morillo Hiandra Martínez, Lineisy Montero, Sculy Mejía, Tindi Mar, América González, Celic Dorig and more.
Source: Vogue Mexico
