It all began in the times of the second Mexican empire (1864-1867) when cream and European cheeses were added to many Mexican regional dishes.
The cooks of Emperor Maximilian made adjustments to Mexican recipes to suit the ruler’s taste and reduce the spiciness.
And we are not referring to chef Josef Tudos or cook Gräf, but to the modest butler Rodrigo Llanes.
When the empire fell in June 1867, Llanes settled with his family in Coahuila, taking his recipe book with him. This is narrated by the chef-owner of the Jolgorio restaurant, the great-grandson of this cook or butler.
Years passed, and when the Mexican revolution broke out, the “imperial cook” returned to Mexico City with his family fleeing the war.
In this city, CAFÉ IMPERIO opened, where they prepared many of the recipes that Maximilian of Habsburg enjoyed, such as the Imperio Cake or the Dientes de Odalisca dish, which were Esquites with cream and cheese.
As well as the chicken enchiladas in green sauce with cream and granulated cheese, the emblematic Enchiladas Suizas.
It is said that the name comes from the fact that the cheese reminded the emperor of the snow that covered the Swiss Alps, or because the name was very “avant-garde”, when everything French was in fashion during the Porfiriato.
The Café Imperio ended up closing its doors, and many of its clients began to suggest that they prepare them in other popular restaurants in the capital, among them the dying Jockey Club in the old palace of the Counts of the Orizaba Valley, better known as Casa de los Azulejos.
Beginning in 1917, brothers Walter and Frank Sanborns rented this place where they popularized and perfected the famous “Enchiladas Suizas“, turning them into an iconic Mexican dish.
Source: Espacio Television